Cycling tour in Asuka

Last Monday, I went on a monitor cycling tour in Asuka, the first capital of Japan.

It is a place of interest in Japanese history because this is supposedly where Prince Shōtoku wrote the first constitution of Japan. Although different from what we consider a constitution today, Asuka is commonly accepted to be the place where Japan as a country was born.

On this bike tour, we were provided with electric bikes, so I decided to go all the way to Asuka with my very non-electric bike to still get some exercise out of it. The ride from my house was about one hour. On the way there, I saw this majestic great egret.

I almost got late to the gathering trying to take these shots, but am happy about how they turned out.

Takamatsuzuka tumulus 高松塚古墳

The Takamatsuzuka Tomb is an old tomb thought to have been built around the 7th to 8th century. Its shape is round, one of the oldest designs. Ancient mural paintings have been found inside depicting, among other, women dressed in colourful attire. They have been baptised Asuka bijin (beauties of Asuka), and their discovery has sparked interest in archeology in Japan.

The crypt was sealed to preserve the wall paintings, while faithful reproductions have been made by a Japanese master craftsman for people to admire. One is an exact replica, while another has had dirt removed to better appreciate the visuals.

The tumulus was discovered in 1960 by a farmer while he was digging a hole to store ginger roots. Following this discovery, the site was excavated in 1972. What a surprise that must have been for that farmer.

Ishibutai Kofun 石舞台古墳

The Ishibutai Kofun is an old tumulus, and is said to be the tumb of Soga no Umako, a key character in the adoption of Buddhism by Japan. However, there is no consensus about whose tumb it really is. The tumulus is rectangular-shaped, and the inner chamber is relatively large (which hints at the importance of its resident).

It is made of huge natural stones, and its construction uses technological advancement imported from outside Japan. It is also one of the rare kofun open to the public and a popular destination for school trips in Western Japan.

Asukadera 飛鳥寺

Asukadera is the very first temple built in Japan. From the outside, it does not look as imposing as later Buddhist monuments, but its importance for Japanese history cannot be understated.

Its construction started in 588, under the order of Soga no Umako, and it was achieved in 596. Through the ages, it was successively known as Hōkōji 法興寺, Gangōji 元興寺, and Asukadera 飛鳥寺. It is currently also known as Agoin 安居院.

It has considerable Korean influence, which is due to masters and artisans coming from the old Korean kingdom of Baekje. Once the capital city moved from Asuka, many of the buildings in the temple complex were moved and re-used in the Nara Gangōji.

Inside the temple sits the oldest Buddha statue in Japan. It is a sitting image of Siddhartha Gautama—also known as Shakyamuni—made in 609. Funnily enough, early depictions of Buddha looked more alien-like and gradually gained human features as time went on.

The original temple buildings were lost to fires in 887 and 1196. The place was later abandoned but was rebuilt in 1632 and 1826.

Kengoshi-zuka tumulus 牽牛子塚古墳

This tumulus is thought to have been built between the 7th and 8th centuries. Its shape is neither round nor rectangular but octagonal, a shape exclusive to the imperial family. It is likely that it was built for Empress Kōgyoku.

Back home

The tour was very informative. Asuka is a delightful place to bike around, and electric rental bikes made this easier than ever. I would really recommend you give it a try if you're near Nara or Osaka and have an afternoon to spare.

On the way back home, I saw a little egret. It was a nice day, and I will definitely go back there.